THE SOUTH

On a 2009 trip to Queensland I visited Surfer's Paradise - it's 20 years since I last visited and I was keen to see what this tourist hub was like again. This was a self-funded trip, so no favours to anyone.

In the last few years Surfer's has had a bit of bad press, no thanks to "schoolies week," coastal erosion, whales caught in shark nets, and what some term "high-rise overkill." After several days checking the place out, I have to say I'm positively impressed - the long ocean beach is pristine, old 1960s and 1980s apartment blocks and houses have given way to impressive high-rise towers (which is part of the landscape these days), the local bus service is tops (truly!) and you can get a good coffee.

My daughter and I stayed at the Mantra Sun City apartments, a few hundred metres north of Cavill Avenue - the tourist heart of Surfer's. It was a good base - close to the beach, fairly well maintained and spaciously self-contained. We went to Seaworld one day (recommended - well-run & much fun for kids), and Movieworld (ok, but one popular ride was not working, two others intermittent). Cavill Ave, apart from one unwarranted adult-type anomoly, is good for a wander with kids (for a morning) or shopping and an ice-cream. We also rode the Aquaduck which toured local streets and waterways, and this is recommended too.

REVIEW: well worth a visit. They say it gets hot in summer but in September 09 it was a great holiday from cold Melbourne. I did my last-minute booking with Flight Centre and it all went smoothly.

TROPICAL NORTH

In June 2010 I spent several days in far north Queensland, flying to Cairns and then driving a hire car to Thala Beach Lodge at Oak Beach, just south of Port Douglas. It turnd out to be a good choice - neat upmarket bungalows in the rainforest on about 60ha of grounds, with a length of sandy beach fringed by palm trees. Very tropical, and very comfortable but not cheap during school holiday times. This lodge suited me - and my 11yo daughter - as we wanted more than an apartment in touristy Port Douglas. There were guided walks and astronomy nights included, and there was plenty of "hammock time" by the beach. Restaurant food and friendly staff were top class. Highly recommended.

Anyone visiting the region should include diving or snorkelling on the Great Barrier Reef. My daughter and I did this - at a cost of around $200pp, but it is like swimming in a tropical aquarium - the fish are absolutely brilliant. There's no wonder the Reef's got World Heritage listing. Take a half-decent underwater camera if you can: we bought a cheap one ($20) which was not good.

Another worthwhile place in Port Douglas is is the Rainforest Habitat which is a zoo of the region's tropical fauna, and it also has "meet the animal" presentations of reptiles and koalas.

In recent years I have been to Cairns, the Daintree Rainforest and Cape Tribulation.

A couple of days in Cairns is enough - unless using the town as a base for tours to reef and rainforest. I stayed in tourist mecca Port Douglas too, and while many people have an entire holiday here I think 3 days would be enough - again, plus tours. I stayed at a luxury lodge near Mossman which has recently been taken over by another operator, so I will have to re-visit to review the accommodation again. A day tour to the Daintree is worth paying for - you see things you might otherwise miss by self-driving.

I also enjoyed a complementary bird-watching tour on the Daintree River - international visitors collate rare species with amazing dedication. An early morning start for this, but a surreal experience - not just watching birds but watching the binocular-wielding bird-watchers too. I have previously been to the Great Barrier Reef and some islands.

Further north, I once stayed at a lodge near the Bloomfield River mouth, south of Cooktown. It had an excellent location, remote and scenic, very good accommodation in the "honeymoon suites" and a range of tours available. Not cheap, but a memorable experience. I would have to re-visit before recommending

tropical far north Queensland

NB: prices, ownership and hosting may change without notice, and some of these properties have not been re-inspected for over two years due to remote locations. Updates will be made when possible.

THESE PLACES HAVE NOT PAID FOR INCLUSION, NO COMMISSIONS OR BOOKING FEES ARE PAID TO THIS SITE.

For the last 25 years Peter Robinson has travelled widely through Australia, writing hundreds of travel features for most newspapers and travel magazines in the country. He has also been a chief reviewer of select B&Bs, small hotels, cottages and guest apartments for successful guide books. Accommodation featured here is a selection of the best, in Peter's opinion, that is currently available. See about this site for further information.